By Pauline Odhiambo
On the face of it, the desire to look attractive is universal, making humanity push the boundaries of physical appearance down the ages.
Ancient Egyptians, Romans and Greeks were known to use natural ingredients like honey mixed with olive oil to lighten their skin. Some experimented with a mixture of vinegar and Cerussa — Latin for white lead — to achieve the complexion they wanted.
In China, skin bleaching practices date back to more than 2,200 years ago, including methods like the application of chalk. What makes skin lightening a contentious choice, especially in Africa, is the cultural context of the practice.
"Whitewashing", a term denoting digital alteration of images or physical modification of skin tone to make it appear lighter, is seen by many as effectively minimising or misrepresenting people of colour.
Touching a raw nerve
One school of thought is that Western colonialists exported their prejudices to the people they enslaved, promoting the idea that lighter skin is superior. This led to the widespread adoption of skin-bleaching practices in colonised regions.
The idea of being comfortable in one's skin hasn't vanished.
"I would never buy make-up from a brand whose ambassador promotes lighter skin," a Rwanda-based skincare enthusiast tells TRT Afrika.
While the debate rages, the alternate view is that how a person presents oneself to the world should be treated entirely as a personal choice.
"People need to chill out and leave those who lighten their skin alone…Also, those who are out in the sun all day long do tend to get lighter afterwards if they spend considerable time indoors," says a social media user.
Business of bleaching
According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), lighter skin is often idealised and held up as the pinnacle of beauty in many societies.
In some cultures, physical attractiveness, marriageability, career opportunities and socio-economic status are directly correlated with skin colour.
This often affects the self-esteem of women of colour worldwide, who in turn seek chemical alternatives to lighten their complexion.
A November 2023 factsheet of WHO's Integrated African Health Observatory shows that prevalence varies significantly, ranging from 25% in Mali to 77% in Nigeria. Zimbabwe (31.15%), South Africa (32%), Ghana (39%), Senegal (50%) and Congo-Brazzaville (66%) are the other nations in the mid to high range.
This, in turn, has created a booming global business in bleach creams and injectables valued at US $9.22 billion in 2023.
The market is projected to expand to $16.42 billion by 2032.
Genetic conditions
Experts say it isn't improbable that one's skin lightens naturally due to various factors.
"In some people, pigmentation disorders can affect their skin’s darkness or lightness, with the amount of melanin or pigment depending on sun exposure and genetic factors," Ayanda Masemola, a dermatologist in South Africa's Johannesburg, tells TRT Afrika.
"Sometimes, the cells that produce melanin can become damaged or have unusual genetic features, which can darken the skin and lead to hyperpigmentation or lighten in cases of hypopigmentation."
In hypopigmentation, loss of colour may occur all over the body or affect small or large patches in specific areas.
"Hypopigmentation may be more noticeable in people with darker skin because of the contrast between their natural skin colour and the lighter patches," explains Masemola.
Effect of medication
Certain medications can also change a person's complexion.
"Drugs can alter the appearance of one's skin, especially among people of certain ethnicities. Women are more prone to hormonal changes, and also people of Asian or African descent," says Wandia Karige, an aesthetician in Kenya.
"It all depends on the medication being taken, the dosage and the duration."
Steroids and hydroquinone, known to affect skin colour, are part of the product portfolios of some of the biggest pharmaceutical companies worldwide.
Karige points out that although these medicines have legitimate medical uses and must be obtained with a prescription in most countries, they are often obtained illegally and misused.
This is especially true in countries where skin whitening is popular.
Karige recommends using sunscreen and wearing clothes that cover the skin to protect it from harmful UV rays. Certain pigmentation-altering medications require medical consultation.
"Changes in a person's skin colour can affect self-esteem and overall quality of life. It is advisable to seek counselling before making any drastic changes to one's complexion," she tells TRT Afrika.
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