By Sylvia Chebet
The late Anthony Bourdain, a chronicler of cuisines and cultures like no other, lived by the philosophy that "food may not be the answer to world peace, but it's a start".
In bridging the several thousand miles that separate Lagos and London with her pop-ups, Simisola Idowu-Ajibodu — better known as Chef SiA — epitomises everything they say about the power of a plateful of food cooked with love and skill.
"To cook is to be happy," Chef SiA tells TRT Afrika. "It is all about carrying guests on a culinary journey of warmth, familiarity and great conversation, all leading up to happiness in your mouth."
The Nigerian-British chef's labour of love, Chef SiA's Roundtable, is not a traditional restaurant with an address. It pops up and folds in Lagos or London, depending on which of the cities she is in on a given day.
The two cities may be worlds apart in terms of cuisines and palates, but Chef SiA's creative infusions and flair for reinventing dishes bridge the continental divide on a plate. For those lucky to be hosted, it's not just a meal but an experience to remember.
“I always tell my guests that I am carrying them on a journey. From the first bite of bread with my black garlic butter to the last serving of dessert, which could be a Chin-Chin parfait (a crunchy, doughnut-like baked or fried dish), my guests are always surprised, happy and intrigued," says Chef SiA.
Universal palate
Food blogger Taiwo Ketiku says creative reinventions whet her palate. The trick, she points out, is in making the dishes relatable.
"The West may not relate with yam flour because it is not a staple in their diet. So, when you present things like 'ofada rice' as 'ofada crackers', 'jollof rice' as a risotto, and milo as a crumble, people can relate to them," she explains.
"Of course, Africans might scream and shout things like 'abomination' or 'how dare you turn amala to a crisp, or iru into a gelato?', but it’s a mixed perception and loved more than frowned on."
So, how does Chef SiA design her recipes?
"It's a blend of God and just being daring," she says, laughing at the thought.
"Most of my recipes come from a reference point of popular dishes from my childhood. I work backwards. I know what I want a new dish to taste like — from texture to flavour. With that information, I can develop something new."
Tribute to roots
Chef SiA spent her childhood in Nigeria, where she was born, before relocating to England at 12. Food has fascinated her from as far back as she can remember.
"Watching my grandma and my mum cook from scratch was always such a curious process. Fast forward to boarding school in England, where I was exposed to food technology, and it just made sense. I knew from that early age that I wanted to be a chef," she reminisces.
Chef SiA binged on television shows on food, especially one called "Chopped", and allowed herself to travel into an imaginary kitchen where just about any ingredient she needed was within an arm's reach.
"Even before I went to culinary school, my mind always mixed and matched a variety of dishes, and I dreamt of what these would taste like," she recounts, pleased that now it is her reality.
But what keeps her going is her happiness in cooking and feeding people. "I love exploring how various ingredients can come together to create happiness. If a dish I create does not bring me joy, I don't serve it," she tells TRT Afrika.
Chef SiA draws heavily from her West African roots, and it seems to be clicking. The culinary world, she reckons, "is embracing West African ingredients and dishes".
This was also the driving force behind her culinary enterprise, a bespoke service that allows her to create a community of people who enjoy the experience of the food she makes.
"I started the Chef SiA Roundtable experience to showcase how I interpret West African ingredients," she says. "I hope to take this to a global stage and invite people to immerse themselves in my culinary creations."
Encouraging feedback
Nothing brings Chef SiA more joy than when her patrons understand the food she serves them. "From the questions they ask about the history of a dish to what are the ingredients, being able to stoke the curiosity of my guests makes me proud," she says.
However, cooking West African cuisines in London or adding an English element to her dishes in Lagos comes with its fair share of challenges. The biggest hurdle is sourcing the appropriate ingredients.
"I can't tell the number of times I tried looking for fresh scallops in Lagos or ripe guava in London. Thankfully, I don't face that many challenges anymore because the world has become such a small place where you can get everything with a click," says Chef SiA.
Waiting to see how guests respond to her innovations and reinvented dishes is something she looks forward to. "I can't have enough of watching them taste one of the newer dishes on the menu: 'Goat croquettes with Spicy Zobo jam'."
"This dish was inspired by a street food called 'Asun. Every time I serve this dish to those who haven't had it before, there's always a smile on their faces," she says.
"It's the fact that they didn't expect it to be what it is, and because it's such a small bite, the mind is looking for more. I love it!"
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