By Maryam Bugaje
Nigerian university student, Amina (not her real name), knows what it is like not to be comfortable in one's own skin — or, worse, being forced into such a mindset.
"I was constantly teased for being the dark-skinned one among my sisters and cousins, all of whom had lighter skin," 26-year-old Amina tells TRT Afrika.
All the negativism surrounding her skin tone even within the family circle led to Amina developing low self-esteem, which progressively got worse after she started university.
It wasn't long before she fell victim to what Lagos-based associate dermatologist Dr Basirat Akanbi terms "a pandemic": skin bleaching.
"Most of my friends either had natural light skin or used skin lightening products. It seemed like those with lighter skin received more attention and admiration. So, I started using these products," says Amina of her descent into the cosmetic abyss.
The bleaching products she used initially yielded the desired results on her face, albeit with unwanted side effects.
"They caused discolouration, especially around my knuckles. When I tried to stop, I got rashes. This pushed me back into using these products until I finally stopped a year ago," says Amina.
Many, especially men, often consider fair skin as more attractive. This perception pushes some seeking the perceived benefits associated with having light skin to start using creams and soaps that bleach, whiten, or lighten their skin.
Life-threatening
The term "colorism", coined in a 1982 essay by the American novelist Alice Walker, denotes prejudice or discrimination against individuals with a dark skin tone, typically among people of the same ethnic or racial group.
"During our last outreach in Makoko, a slum area of Lagos, close to 90% of the people we encountered were using skin lightening creams. Even more troubling were instances of parents, especially mothers, who applied these creams to their children, including infants," says Dr Akanbi.
The common practice is mixing a steroid-based product, often referred to as triple-action cream, with shea butter before applying it to children's skin.
"The parents claimed they were just moisturising the skin with shea butter, but on further inquiry, they admitted to mixing steroid-based cream with it," says Dr Akanbi.
Skin whitening products often contain harmful ingredients that can have adverse effects, even posing life-threatening risks when used for extended periods without medical supervision.
Three specific ingredients commonly found in these harmful skin whitening products are widely prevalent worldwide and subject to strict regulations in most countries.
Thinning the skin
However, despite these regulations, they remain easily accessible including in many African countries, and their misuse or prolonged use can be detrimental to one's health. Steroids, the staple of such products, are the prime danger.
"Long-term use of steroids can cause thinning of the skin, which manifests as visible blue/green veins, premature aging, stretch marks, an uneven complexion, and diminished skin immunity," warns Dr Akanbi.
Hydroquinone, another ingredient, has been classified by the US regulator FDA as a potential carcinogen.
According to Dr Akanbi, it can also cause an uneven complexion, orange or brown nail discoloration, and a condition known as exogenous ochronosis, which is often mistaken for sunburn on the face and darkening of the knuckles.
Furthermore, long-term use of hydroquinone can potentially contribute to the development of kidney and or liver disease according to experts.
Mercury, the third key ingredient of such products, is known to inhibit melanin production, leading to a lighter skin tone. However, its presence in skin whitening products can be harmful and should be approached with caution.
Unborn babies too
According to the World Health Organisation (WHO), inorganic mercury present in many skin lightening creams and soaps can have multiple adverse health effects, including kidney damage, skin rashes, skin discoloration, scarring, reduced resistance to bacterial and fungal infections, anxiety, depression, psychosis, and peripheral neuropathy.
''Skin lightening products don’t just pose a risk to the user – children can be exposed through breastmilk, and food chains can become contaminated when cosmetics are washed off into wastewater,'' the WHO says.
When these products are disposed of, the mercury is released into wastewater, where it enters the environment and undergoes a process called methylation.
This transformed mercury can subsequently enter the food chain, particularly in fish, where it exists in a highly toxic form known as methylmercury.
Pregnant women who consume fish containing methylmercury can transfer it to their unborn children, leading to developmental deficits.
To address this issue, an international treaty known as the Minamata Convention has set a limit of 1mg/1kg (1ppm) for mercury in skin lightening products.
Tougher sanctions
But a study conducted by the Zero Mercury Working Group and Biodiversity Research Institute in 2018 tested over 300 products from 22 countries, and found that around 10% of the skin lightening creams exceeded this limit.
Some of the products even contained as much as 100 times the authorised amount. To address the widespread usage of these harmful products, Dr Akanbi says more awareness programmes and regulations are needed including holding companies producing skin lightening substances accountable.
"Laws should be enacted to make it illegal to lighten the skin of babies and children. Producers of lightening cosmetics should be made to pay heavy taxes, which can be used to provide more access to healthcare. Triple action creams should be controlled and should no longer be available as over-the- counter medications," she suggests.
For the Nigerian student, Amina, her realisation about the perils of trying to look like someone she isn't may have spared her a worse ordeal than being teased, but many like her may be missing the only thing they will ever need: a thick skin.
