By Firmain Eric Mbadinga
In a landmark scene from the 1990 Hollywood film Edward Scissorhands, make-up saleswoman Peg Boggs finds the main protagonist abandoned in a mansion and is instantly unnerved by his complexion and scars.
She tries to conceal with make-up what she sees as Edward's blemishes, but he couldn't care less. Peg ends up making a mess of the cover-up, of course, but the message isn't lost on the viewer — beauty (or the absence of it) only lies in the eyes of the beholder.
In real life, Cameroonian Tatiana Mengué always wants to look beautiful, and in everyone's eyes. So, whenever the 30-something year-old cashier has to step out of the house, it is routine for her to put on some foundation and other facial make-up.
Rebecca Maria, a professional make-up artist in Ghana's Accra, and Valentine, who lives in Libreville, believe that using make-up to "look beautiful" is de rigueur, especially for women.
"Every woman feels beautiful when she wears make-up. Make-up is all about feeling beautiful in your skin, and a woman should always look her best," Valentine tells TRT Afrika.
The 34-year-old accountant, however, hastens to add that she has heard about the toxicity of certain make-up products, making it imperative for women to pick their products with care.
While Valentine insists she isn't "addicted" to make-up, Tatiana admits she would feel "ugly" without it.
It all started ten years ago for Tatiana, who felt the need for attention after being taunted about how she looked in her native Mbam region of central Cameroon.
"If our face doesn't perfectly match the standards society sets, we are quickly labelled ugly. When I discovered make-up in 2015, I thought, 'Here's a way to silence my imperfections'," she recounts.
"I became addicted to make-up because I was afraid of self-loathing and rejection. With make-up, I regained my self-confidence and, above all, my self-esteem."
Mind over make-up
A recent survey by the Renfrew Centre Foundation in Canada revealed that 44% of women feel unattractive without make-up.
In 2013, the World Health Organisation (WHO) drew attention to the public health risks of certain cosmetic products. It pointed out that the chemical composition of certain cosmetic products includes hormone disruptors that can lead to sterility and even skin cancer.
Beauty professional Rebecca often meets people who like make-up more or less than others. To make her customers "more beautiful", she uses a range of cosmetic tools and products.
"In my work, I use foundation, palettes, eye shadow, brushes, highlights, pencils and the beauty blender. I also use cleansing wipes, powder, glitter, lipstick palettes and baking powder. Then there's spray fixative, false eyelashes, fard à joues (blush), primer and micellar water," she says, reeling off the list
The make-up artist, who also teaches courses in the field, says she has two categories of customers: those who like their make-up more pronounced and others who prefer it less accentuated. Since she has a regular clientele, Rebecca uses only the safest available cosmetics.
Aside from the question about the reliability of the products sold off the counter, Togolese dermatologist Waguena Gnassingbé cautions against the dangerous nature of certain chemical substances that go into many products used for facial make-up.
The list includes talc, wax, mica, kaolin, silicones and dyes.
These elements can all potentially cause health problems. Talc can promote acne, and dyes can irritate the skin.
"Make-up becomes a health hazard when it starts to dry out the skin, or when it becomes irritating (allergenic) or comedogenic (encourages the appearance of acne)," explains Dr Gnassingbé. Tatiana admits she is fully aware of the risks highlighted by Dr Gnassingbé.
"I have had allergic reactions and respiratory problems because of the fragility of my skin. But I can't stop wearing make-up; it's stronger than me," she tells TRT Afrika.
Selective use
For those like Tatiana who can't avoid daily make-up, Dr Gnassingbé advocates educating oneself about what not to use.
She points out, for example, that benzophenones 1 and 3 are no longer supposed to be in cosmetic products.
Benzophenones 1 and 3 are elements found in cosmetic products that are supposed to combat ultraviolet rays. They are considered to be endocrine disruptors that affect reproduction in women. These two substances are also regarded as environmental pollutants, particularly for water and coral.
For people with allergies, acne, dermatitis, irritation or eczema problems, Dr Gnassingbé says skin restoration is fortunately still possible.
But as the spiraling sales of beauty products worldwide prove, make-up is the fair-weather friend many can't get rid of.
