By Emmanuel Onyango
Once only worn by royals, Ghanaians believe the Kente cloth is the most beautiful fabric in the world. Its bold patterns and vibrant colours are a national pride and the result of an age-old craft dating back centuries.
It’s no wonder that this month Unesco, the UN culture agency, announced it was including the Kente cloth under its category of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The handwoven cloth bestows elegance to the wearer, with different designs designating their region of origin and fashion sense.
“It's one of the best feeling when I put on Kente cloth. My style of walking changes, the way I talk changes. It is classy,” Bright Yeboah, a resident in the capital Accra, told TRT Afrika.
What is Kente and how is it made?
Kente weaving with its bold colours dates as far back as 17th century AD, according to some accounts, among the Asante and Ewe people who were part of the Ashanti kingdom in modern-day Ghana.
The cloth is woven from silk, cotton or rayon using wooden weaving looms either at home or in privately-owned workshops. The knowledge has been handed down for centuries within weaving families through apprenticeship.
Creating a single cloth can take weeks depending on size.
Different colours are traditionally used in the intricate art, each holding its symbolism: gold for status, red for passion and yellow for fertility among others.
“The age, social status and gender of users influence the choice of colour and design of the fabric,” Unesco said in its statement while recognising the cloth as a cultural heritage.
Men traditionally wear Kente wrapped over their shoulders while women wear it in two pieces - and ankle-length dress and a shawl.
“People of both genders are involved in the production process, and the fabric promotes information transfer and exchange. It is also a means of identity construction, reflecting the social histories of various communities,” the Unesco statement added.
What’s the cultural significance?
“There is immense pride in wearing Kente. It is a very powerful statement of cultural identity and celebration of heritage. Kente shows respect for tradition and shares a piece of Ghanaian culture with the world,” Amos Homeda told TRT Afrika.
Homeda has been in the Kente business for 25 years after learning the craft at his father’s workshop. He owns a Kente weaving workshop in Accra that employs weavers who produce the traditional fabric. He also runs a shop that sells the finished cloth.
“The pride in wearing Kente stems from its deep-rooted history and skilled craftsmanship involved. Each piece tells a story, reflecting the dedication and artistry of the weavers. It's a symbol of resilience, creativity and endurance of Ghana culture,” he added.
Kente is widely available for all but the cloth is not thought of as cheap. This is because of its special status that requires high quality materials and the painstaking artistry involved.
“Kente is expensive and it needs to be expensive. Kente is art and art is expensive. It comes with royalty. Whoever puts it on needs to understand the value of Kente cloth,” observed Yeboah.
The prize of a finished Kente dress depends on the type of cloth and patterns chosen by the wearer. It can range from $200 to $2,000, according to Homeda.
Latifa Abdullahi, a resident in Accra, told TRT Afrika how she had to save money for months in order to afford a Kente cloth for her wedding dress.
“My first time to wear Kente was on my wedding day and I felt so good, I felt like I'm truly a royal. The price is really expensive. I saved for four months,” she recalled.
Booming Kente business
Beyond its cultural value, weaving Kente is a booming business with clientele across the globe.
“The market is dynamic. We've seen significant growth both in Ghana and internationally. There is a rising global interest. We are constantly adapting to market trends by introducing new designs and style, while preserving authenticity of the traditional weaving technique,” Homeda told TRT Afrika.
“The kente business when approached strategically and ethically can be incredibly lucrative and profitable. We focus on sustainable practises, fair wages for our weavers and high quality materials,'' he added.
However, machine-made versions that are cheaper has deepened competition.
Young designers have been experimenting with incorporating the Kente cloth into both modern formal clothes and also everyday casual wear. They consider the Kente as a versatile cloth that can elevate any outfit.
With a population of about 35 million, Ghana is the second-most populous in West Africa. It is Africa’s largest gold producer and one of the top globally. It is also the second largest producer of cocoa in the world after neighbouring Côte d'Ivoire.
Ghana is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The first are the Asante traditional buildings which are a collection of 10 traditionally built buildings from the time of the Ashanti Empire in the area near Kumasi.
The second are the forts and castles used as outposts in the colonial era by the Portuguese, Dutch and British along the country's coast.
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